One of the best things about growing plants that are native to and very hardy in the area where you live is that they tend to reproduce. This gives you free landscape stock to use elsewhere on your property. A short list of cold-hardy perennials, shrubs, and trees for northern climates can be found here.
I just finished digging up three brand new forsythia bushes from around the one big one that we had in our yard. Forsythias reproduce mainly by a form of self cloning. The tips of the long braches that extend out along the plant's perimeter will eventually droop down to the ground and take root. In just one year of growth after these new rots begin to take hold, new shoots as much as two to three feet tall will mark a new plant that can be separated from the parent plant and transplanted.
Simple Tips for Eco-Friendly Landscaping
Our big forsythia has a diameter of perhaps twenty feet from branch tip to branch tip. Around its perimeter are perhaps 15 small plants. Each one is made up of many individual shoots coming out of the ground from a common root ball. When you dig them up, you should keep the clusters together to avoid damaging the roots too much trying to separate them. This will also help the young plants to look fuller and more colorful while they are still small.
The proper time to transplant varies by the type of plant. Generally, I like to do it in the spring. The ground is moist and not likely to dry out or require too much extra watering and many plants here in New England are already in the "re-establishing mode." That means they are actively sending out new feeder roots to fuel the development of new spring leaves and flowers as well as the year's new growth. If you dig them up without damaging too many of the roots that have laready begun growing, you can take advantage of this spring activity and the transplants can get off to a strong start in their new locations. Depending upon the plant species, this may differ a bit from conventional advice, but it works well for me as long as I provide the TLC needed after transplanting.
As with any newly transplanted landscape stock, keep a close eye on it for a few weeks to make sure it stays healthy. If roots are damaged or if, as with a forsythis you have to cut around a root ball to keep it manageable, you need to watch for signs that the plant isn't getting enough water through its remaining root system. If it starts wilting or loosing leaves, that's a sure sign of dehydration and the plant should be thoroughly watered until it no longer wilts between waterings.
As eco-friendly gardners, using collected rainwater for this purpose is a good idea, especially for those who live in areas where clean water sources are overtaxed by increasing human demand.
OK, now I'm off to separate some irises that have multiplied to the point of overcrowding.
Happy Gardening!
Saturday, April 30, 2011
Saturday, April 23, 2011
Easter snow for New England
After several days of warm weather last week that almost had us convinced that it was spring time, today we have two inches of snow. Fortunately, the only things we have planetd in the garden so far are plants that can withstand a little cold and snow. We have Jersualem artichokes in the ground. We've planted garden peas and lettuce. And of course, we've separated and replanted the garlic that was left in the ground as seed stock from last autumn.
There are also a number of perennials that are already growing. Strawberry plants are also growing already and we've dug and separted them. Chives, garlic chives, thyme, lemon thyme, and a few other herbs are already coming up and turning green as well. We don't expect these to be harmed at all by the brief return of wintry weather.
It isn't cold enough to hurt anything else that might be budding up around the yard like apple trees, lilacs, or any of the bulb plants (crocus, daffodil, and such) that are poking up through the ground either.
What the snow will do is keep the soil wet. That puts jerusalem artichoke tuber cuttings at slight risk of rot, but they are in a well-drained area so they should be ok.
The rest of our summer vegetables are still indoors, in seed starting trays, completely oblivious to the elements outdoors.
The snow is a reminder, however, that no matter how many seventy degree days we get in the early New England spring, there is always the possibility of cold and snow until we get into late May. Even then it's possible, although much rarer.
There are also a number of perennials that are already growing. Strawberry plants are also growing already and we've dug and separted them. Chives, garlic chives, thyme, lemon thyme, and a few other herbs are already coming up and turning green as well. We don't expect these to be harmed at all by the brief return of wintry weather.
It isn't cold enough to hurt anything else that might be budding up around the yard like apple trees, lilacs, or any of the bulb plants (crocus, daffodil, and such) that are poking up through the ground either.
What the snow will do is keep the soil wet. That puts jerusalem artichoke tuber cuttings at slight risk of rot, but they are in a well-drained area so they should be ok.
The rest of our summer vegetables are still indoors, in seed starting trays, completely oblivious to the elements outdoors.
The snow is a reminder, however, that no matter how many seventy degree days we get in the early New England spring, there is always the possibility of cold and snow until we get into late May. Even then it's possible, although much rarer.
Monday, April 11, 2011
Keeping seed stock for self-sufficient spring planting
One of the ways in we try to become more self-sufficient as gardeners is to keep our own seed stock at the end of the year so that we can grow or own crops year after year without buying seeds. This doesn’t work well for everything we grow. For some things we’re still better off buying commercially available seeds, but garlic works quite well in the New England climate and is also one of the easiest to propagate.
Read more with complete step by step instructions and photos on how to propagate and plant garlic...
Read more with complete step by step instructions and photos on how to propagate and plant garlic...
Photo by Brad Sylvester, all rights reserved
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Reducing your home's energy needs
One of the ways in which we live a greener lifestyle is to use energy more efficiently. Properly insulated homes, energy efficient appliances and lights, and good energy use habits all play a major role in reducing our electricity usage.
Since we are drawing electricity from the grid, our power comes in large part from the burning of fossil fuels. Reducing the amount of electricity we use, therefore, also reduces the amount of greenhouse gases that are released into the atmosphere.
One way in which the average homeowner can make sure their home is as energy efficient as possible is to conduct a DIY home energy audit. the link below is an article I wrote in my capacity as the Manchester Green Living Examiner which gives some detailed information on home energy audits and links to find even more detailed information from official sources.
Since we are drawing electricity from the grid, our power comes in large part from the burning of fossil fuels. Reducing the amount of electricity we use, therefore, also reduces the amount of greenhouse gases that are released into the atmosphere.
One way in which the average homeowner can make sure their home is as energy efficient as possible is to conduct a DIY home energy audit. the link below is an article I wrote in my capacity as the Manchester Green Living Examiner which gives some detailed information on home energy audits and links to find even more detailed information from official sources.
Monday, April 4, 2011
Starting vegetable seeds indoors
There are some parts of the country where the growing season is so long that you can wait to plant most ordinary vegetables directly outdoors, if you should forget to start them indoors. New Hampshire is not one of those places. The growing season here runs just about 120 days between the average last day of spring frost and the average first day of autumn frost.
For those keeping score at home, that's May 20th to September 20th, just four short months. To be fair, there are some hardy garden plants that aren't really bothered by a little frost every now and then. Spinach, cabbage, brussel sprouts, and a few others can be planted outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked. Of course, if the soil is too cold, then the seeds will remain dormant and risk rotting if the soil is also too wet.
Other vegetables are too delicate to place outdoors until the danger of frost has passed. These include staples of the New England garden like tomatoes, summer squash, cucumbers, and tender herbs like basil. These delicate plants should be started indoors to get a head start on the short growing season.
For most of these, six weeks before the last date of frost is the right time to start them indoors. Varying from that timing depends upon the amount of space you have and your level of gardening ability.
If you have trouble keeping house plants alive, then you're probably going to be better off waiting until about four weeks before the plants can go outside. That gives you less time to screw things up.
On the other hand, if you are very confident in your ability to nurture house plants, then you can go as long as eight weeks indoors, but you may need to transplant them into larger pots once they outgrow the initial seed-starting trays.
In any case, even if the temperatures are warm enough you can't simply take your indoor plants and put them outside in the garden without acclimating them to the conditions to which they'll be exposed there. Just as deadly to seedlings that are used to being indoors is direct sunlight.
If you take tomato plants that you started indoors and place them directly outdoors in a sunny garden, they'll be badly burned and maybe killed completely by the harsh sunlight. They are simply not used to it. You need to give them a chance to gradually toughen up or harden off.
That's done by controlled exposure to the outdoor elements. If you move your seed trays to an unheated three seasons porch they can get used to colder night temperatures. To get them ready for the sun, you can put them outdoors for short periods of time, bringing them in before they are over-exposed. Start with the gentle sunlight of the morning hours and work your way up to full midday sun over time.
Another option is to go ahead and plant them outdoors in the sun, but protect them from the harshest solar rays during the heat of the day. You might cover them with a translucent row cover that knocks some of the strength out of the sun, and keeps them warmer at night until the plants are a little stronger.
So, the point of all this is that I have several varieties of tomatoes, hot peppers and a couple of pickling cucumber bushes already started a couple weeks ago, and the rest of the plants will be starting this week.
For those keeping score at home, that's May 20th to September 20th, just four short months. To be fair, there are some hardy garden plants that aren't really bothered by a little frost every now and then. Spinach, cabbage, brussel sprouts, and a few others can be planted outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked. Of course, if the soil is too cold, then the seeds will remain dormant and risk rotting if the soil is also too wet.
Other vegetables are too delicate to place outdoors until the danger of frost has passed. These include staples of the New England garden like tomatoes, summer squash, cucumbers, and tender herbs like basil. These delicate plants should be started indoors to get a head start on the short growing season.
For most of these, six weeks before the last date of frost is the right time to start them indoors. Varying from that timing depends upon the amount of space you have and your level of gardening ability.
If you have trouble keeping house plants alive, then you're probably going to be better off waiting until about four weeks before the plants can go outside. That gives you less time to screw things up.
On the other hand, if you are very confident in your ability to nurture house plants, then you can go as long as eight weeks indoors, but you may need to transplant them into larger pots once they outgrow the initial seed-starting trays.
In any case, even if the temperatures are warm enough you can't simply take your indoor plants and put them outside in the garden without acclimating them to the conditions to which they'll be exposed there. Just as deadly to seedlings that are used to being indoors is direct sunlight.
If you take tomato plants that you started indoors and place them directly outdoors in a sunny garden, they'll be badly burned and maybe killed completely by the harsh sunlight. They are simply not used to it. You need to give them a chance to gradually toughen up or harden off.
That's done by controlled exposure to the outdoor elements. If you move your seed trays to an unheated three seasons porch they can get used to colder night temperatures. To get them ready for the sun, you can put them outdoors for short periods of time, bringing them in before they are over-exposed. Start with the gentle sunlight of the morning hours and work your way up to full midday sun over time.
Another option is to go ahead and plant them outdoors in the sun, but protect them from the harshest solar rays during the heat of the day. You might cover them with a translucent row cover that knocks some of the strength out of the sun, and keeps them warmer at night until the plants are a little stronger.
So, the point of all this is that I have several varieties of tomatoes, hot peppers and a couple of pickling cucumber bushes already started a couple weeks ago, and the rest of the plants will be starting this week.
Sunday, April 3, 2011
Zero heating cost goal for next winter
Every year, our goal is to get a little more self-sufficient. This year, one of our goals is to be entirely self-sufficient in the heating of our 2400 square foot New England mountain home for the 2011/2012 winter season. that means between four and five cords of dried wood needs to be stocked up, starting right about now.
Unfortunately, we still have snow which makes it difficult to get through the wooded areas of our yard to cut down trees. I won't take down so many trees that it impacts the long-term health of the forested area of our yard. My goals is to pull enough wood every year to heat our house, not just for a year or two.
Wood, properly split, stacked and covered can take about 5-6 months to dry enough for buring in a typcial wood stove. We'll need to start burning in late October Which means we would need some wood already drying by now. Fortunately, we have about three-quarters of a cord of seasoned wood already in the wood shed. While we'll use a little more before this spring kicks into gear, it should be minimal.
The rule of thumb for sustainable wood harvesting is that you can pull about a cord of wood per acre of mature forest. Our property is five acres in total with about 1 acre either cleared or with very young trees. that leaves four acres and should provide us with four cords every year. By using it conservatively, that should get us through a typical winter.
Within the next 3 weeks, before the trees leaf out, I want to have all the trees for next winter's firewood felled. From there, if I get one cord split and stacked each month, we should be all set.
I fell the trees and cut them into 16-20 inch lengths with a chainsaw. Which will use a few gallons of gas over the course of the summer, so technically, the cost of the gas and chain oil should fall under heating costs, which makes us not fully self-sufficient in that area. I'll track those costs this year, just to see how much a year's worth of heating does cost. Likewise, if we have a professional chimney sweep come out and clean the chimney, that is a heating cost as well. I may do that myself this year, we'll see.
Once the logs are cut to length, my son and I split it all by hand with a 16 pound maul, after carrying the lengths over an average distance of about 150 yards up a steep grade (about a 20 degree incline) to the splitting/ stacking area. That is a significant workout for both of us, so four cords this summer should have us in pretty good shape by autumn.
The wood shed holds about three cords and the rest we'll stack and cover close to one of the side doors of the house so we don't have to carry it very far through the winter snows when we need it. That will be the first wood we split this year, and the first we burn starting in late October.
A cord, by the way, is 128 cubic feet of wood as split and stacked. It's defined as a stack of wood measuring four feet wide, four feet high, and eight feet long. In our neck of the woods, the going rate for a cord of split dried firewood is about $285, delivered. You can buy a cord of unseasoned wood for about $200, delivered.
Unfortunately, we still have snow which makes it difficult to get through the wooded areas of our yard to cut down trees. I won't take down so many trees that it impacts the long-term health of the forested area of our yard. My goals is to pull enough wood every year to heat our house, not just for a year or two.
Wood, properly split, stacked and covered can take about 5-6 months to dry enough for buring in a typcial wood stove. We'll need to start burning in late October Which means we would need some wood already drying by now. Fortunately, we have about three-quarters of a cord of seasoned wood already in the wood shed. While we'll use a little more before this spring kicks into gear, it should be minimal.
The rule of thumb for sustainable wood harvesting is that you can pull about a cord of wood per acre of mature forest. Our property is five acres in total with about 1 acre either cleared or with very young trees. that leaves four acres and should provide us with four cords every year. By using it conservatively, that should get us through a typical winter.
Within the next 3 weeks, before the trees leaf out, I want to have all the trees for next winter's firewood felled. From there, if I get one cord split and stacked each month, we should be all set.
I fell the trees and cut them into 16-20 inch lengths with a chainsaw. Which will use a few gallons of gas over the course of the summer, so technically, the cost of the gas and chain oil should fall under heating costs, which makes us not fully self-sufficient in that area. I'll track those costs this year, just to see how much a year's worth of heating does cost. Likewise, if we have a professional chimney sweep come out and clean the chimney, that is a heating cost as well. I may do that myself this year, we'll see.
Once the logs are cut to length, my son and I split it all by hand with a 16 pound maul, after carrying the lengths over an average distance of about 150 yards up a steep grade (about a 20 degree incline) to the splitting/ stacking area. That is a significant workout for both of us, so four cords this summer should have us in pretty good shape by autumn.
The wood shed holds about three cords and the rest we'll stack and cover close to one of the side doors of the house so we don't have to carry it very far through the winter snows when we need it. That will be the first wood we split this year, and the first we burn starting in late October.
A cord, by the way, is 128 cubic feet of wood as split and stacked. It's defined as a stack of wood measuring four feet wide, four feet high, and eight feet long. In our neck of the woods, the going rate for a cord of split dried firewood is about $285, delivered. You can buy a cord of unseasoned wood for about $200, delivered.
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