Showing posts with label spring planting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label spring planting. Show all posts

Saturday, May 19, 2012

One Pound of Produce

Photo by Brad Sylvester. Copyright 2012.
It's May 19th. Our most recent threat of overnight frost passed on May17th with temperatures only getting down to about 34 degrees, here on Blue Job Mountain in New Hampshire. Meanwhile today, temperatures hit the high seventies or low eighties. That's a New England spring for you. Old Man Winter struggles fiercely to maintain control of the territory against the challenge laid down by the adolescent spring as it strengthens into its full adulthood of summer.

That's great for poets, but for gardeners it can take some getting used to. Its largely a question of knowing what to plant when, and how to prepare if things look like they aren't going to go as planned. To take advantage of the early season warmth and rains, very hardy plants like radishes, lettuce, spinach, peas, and broccoli can be planted for an early season harvest.

Even before these frost-tolerant plants will be close to ready to pick, however, I have made several harvests from plants that are able to overwinter through the sub-zero temperatures and snow cover of a New England winter. These include some perennial herbs such as chives and oregano, but also a more substantial perennial vegetable: asparagus.

Asparagus is always one of the first vegetables I harvest here each spring. It is on the strength of an early harvest of asparagus that I have already reach one-tenth of one percent of my goal in the 1000 Pound Challenge (the effort to grow 1000 pounds of food for the table on less than 500 square feet of garden space). That's one pound of food on the table already this year from our garden.
I also have one row of my terraced hillside garden planted with strawberries which are just beginning to shed their flower petals and to produce fruit in earnest. I am removing all the runners as they form so that the plants put more energy into fruiting than vegetative growth.

After another round of planting today, our garden now contains the following plants:
  1. Asparagus
  2. Garden Peas
  3. Mixed Lettuce
  4. Spinach
  5. Radishes
  6. Bok Choy
  7. Cucumbers (both full-sized and pickling cukes)
  8. Basil
  9. Red Cabbage
  10. Tomatoes (just a few planted outside as yet with row covers handy)
  11. Mustard Greens
  12. Garlic Chives
  13. Chives
  14. Lemon Thyme
  15. Thyme
  16. Sage
  17. Garlic
  18. Leeks
  19. Strawberries
  20. Wax beans (just planted as seeds)
  21. Sunflowers
  22. Cilantro (Coriander)
  23. Summer Squash
  24. Peppermint
  25. Chocolate Mint
We'll be adding a few more in the next few days as well...

 Outside of the gardens we have many other edible plants (or fungi):
  1. three apples trees (7 varieties thanks to the science of grafting),
  2. one peach tree (newly planted)
  3. one cherry tree (newly planted) (Note: I'm aware that I need another pollinator, but haven't yet gotten around to planting another)
  4.  three grape vines (one established, 2 newly planted)
  5. rhubarb
  6. blackberries (wild)
  7. blueberries (wild)
  8. wintergreen (wild)
  9. occasional edible wild mushrooms
  10. maple and birch trees (for sap which can be boiled down into syrup or sugar)
  11. and a number of other incidental wild edibles that can be found on our 5.25 acre plot of land.  
 I haven't added these to my garden yield totals page since they do not count toward the 1000 Pound Challenge, but I think I'll make a separate total for food plants harvested outside of the garden as well.

Thursday, March 29, 2012

1000 pound challenge accepted

Vegetable and herb seedlings for the 2012 season.
Photo by Brad Sylvester, copyright 2012.
A friend of mine who writes "The Good (& Simple) Life" blog has thrown down the gauntlet. With a 500 square foot area in which to garden, she has vowed to achieve a yield of 1000 pounds of produce over the course of one full calendar year -measured from April 1st 2012 through March 31, 2013 (assuming the Mayan prediction for the world to end in 2012 doesn't come to pass).

That's two pounds of produce per square foot and it's not an easy goal. It helps that Angie, the woman behind "The Good (& Simple) Life" blog's 1000 pound challenge, is planning her garden in the state of Georgia where the growing season is significantly longer than ours here in New Hampshire. Conversely, the fact that she's doing it all organically makes it arguably more difficult.

North vs. South Gardening Challenge

We, here at the "Living with the Land" blog, are taking up the 1000 pound challenge and we'll be comparing results over the course of the year. We will represent northern gardeners while Angie will represent the South.

Size Matters

As Angie noted in her challenge post, she will be growing "tomatoes (enough for canning), peppers, eggplant, zucchini, winter squash (my personal obsession), lettuces, cabbages, fennel, onions, garlic, peas, beans, cucumbers, celery, okra, beets, radishes, carrots, potatoes, parsnips, watermelon, spinach, Swiss chard," and other items as whimsy dictates throughout the year on her rectangular 20 x 25 foot garden plot. That's 500 square feet of garden space.

My garden plots total about 375 square feet and I'll add in another 30 square feet of herb garden. I will not count other producers like an existing grape vine, apple trees, maple trees or other edible wild plants growing throughout my 5.25 acre yard for the purposes of the challenge. I will, however, keep a record of these things as a side note since it may be of interest to those trying to live with the land.

What to Grow This Year

Since I still have some time before the regular growing season starts here, I hadn't yet fully planned what I'll be growing yet. I have already started some seedlings indoors, however. So far I have several varieties of tomatoes including grape, Roma, and Better Boy hybrids, among others. I also have started summer squash, cucumbers, sunflowers, and red cabbage. I have a handful of 2nd year leeks already in the ground along with garlic chives, asparagus crowns, and some garlic cloves planted last year, and have about 40 square feet of the garden area dedicated to strawberries.

I expect that I'll be planting garden peas, pole beans, chili peppers (several varieties), bell peppers, lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets, various greens such as mustard and arugula, and a variety of herbs. My herb garden already contains a few plants that are able to overwinter here with minimal protection: sage, chives, lemon thyme, peppermint, and oregano. I'll weigh the herbs as freshly picked, rather than dried. I use them both ways.

Organic Versus Not so Much

Angie is a committed organic gardener and even uses as much passive watering (collected rain-water) as possible. I am less avid, but still like to avoid using chemicals on my food where ever possible. My water comes from a well on my property. I compost our vegetable and plant scraps along with some of the chicken manure that our backyard flock produces. I have been known to spray Miracle Grow on my garden, use a fungicide for powdery mildew infestations, and once I even used Sevin insecticide for a particularly bad infestation in the garden. I sometimes buy composted cow manure and peat moss to enrich the soil if I am adding a new section of garden. My gardens are raised bed (about 180 square feet) and on a terraced hillside (the remainder, minus about 30 square feet of non-contiguous herb garden).

I have mentioned the short growing season here. As I write this, it is snowing here despite the fact that we had two days of 83+ degree heat last week, naturally followed by two nights at 20 degrees or less. We are in what New Englanders refer to as "mud season." Even my terraces and raised beds are too saturated with water for planting even if the temperatures allowed. With a few exceptions, a significant portion of any seed I put in the ground now would likely rot. As long as we get nights that are below freezing the soil temperature is going to stay low, although the terraces help on that front.

Early spring planting here is a wager. You plant your toughest crops and hope that the weather doesn't call your bluff. Row covers or a small greenhouse could provide protection and greatly extend our growing season for some of the hardy crops, but I don't want to spend more to grow my own food that it would cost me to buy it at a local farmer's market.

The North Poised to Take an Early Lead

A quick survey or the gardens shows me that the warm days we had last week have kicked a few things into gear already. On day one of the challenge, I'll be able to make a token harvest and, hopefully, take the lead over "The Good and Simple Life." It'll be just a handful of chives, some lemon thyme and a bit of oregano, and possibly those few remaining leeks, but if our northern garden is going to have a chance, then every ounce counts and a lead is a lead.

Advantages and Disadvantages

Despite a much shorter productive growing season, we do have the advantage of mature garden beds. The majority of our garden has soil that has been prepared in years past with compost and manure mixed with the sandy and unproductive soil that naturally occurs in our yard. Depending upon the soil quality of Angie's yard, and the amount of available organic compost and composted chicken manure she has available, she may struggle to attain maximum productivity for the first year as nutrients are added into what may  (or may not be) less than optimal soil.

Goals and Techniques

I also want to mention that both of us are aiming for a well-rounded garden whose goal is to provide as much of the table produce for our families as possible. If this were a straight productivity race, we'd each figure out which one or two crops are the best producers by weight and ground area required and plant only those one or two items. Conversely, I expect we'll both benefit from intensive gardening methods and by using a vertical approach such as providing vertical surfaces so that cucumbers and other vines grow upward, letting pole beans climb high up posts and the stalks of sunflowers, while squash and other ground covers act as a natural mulch holding in moisture and preventing soil nutrient run-off.

We'll use successive plantings to try to double up on area used for short-lived plants (like spring peas). and, of course, as I've mentioned, I'll be giving our veggies as much of an early start as possible by seeding them indoors until the weather allows them to move into the garden. While we are having fun with the race to 1000 pounds of garden produce, the real goal is to learn to optimize the available garden space that we have, share best practices, and pass on a little of what we learn to others.

Game On!

We'll detail and compare techniques, obstacles and results with Angie over the next year. Hopefully, the two of us and our readers will learn a few things throughout the process. Don't forget to participate by sharing your favorite tricks for higher yields as comments on the blogs as well.

Game on!

Saturday, April 30, 2011

Free landscaping stock, transplanting

One of the best things about growing plants that are native to and very hardy in the area where you live is that they tend to reproduce. This gives you free landscape stock to use elsewhere on your property. A short list of cold-hardy perennials, shrubs, and trees for northern climates can be found here.

I just finished digging up three brand new forsythia bushes from around the one big one that we had in our yard. Forsythias reproduce mainly by a form of self cloning. The tips of the long braches that extend out along the plant's perimeter will eventually droop down to the ground and take root. In just one year of growth after these new rots begin to take hold, new shoots as much as two to three feet tall will mark a new plant that can be separated from the parent plant and transplanted.

Simple Tips for Eco-Friendly Landscaping

Our big forsythia has a diameter of perhaps twenty feet from branch tip to branch tip. Around its perimeter are perhaps 15 small plants. Each one is made up of many individual shoots coming out of the ground from a common root ball. When you dig them up, you should keep the clusters together to avoid damaging the roots too much trying to separate them. This will also help the young plants to look fuller and more colorful while they are still small.

The proper time to transplant varies by the type of plant. Generally, I like to do it in the spring. The ground is moist and not likely to dry out or require too much extra watering and many plants here in New England are already in the "re-establishing mode." That means they are actively sending out new feeder roots to fuel the development of new spring leaves and flowers as well as the year's new growth. If you dig them up without damaging too many of the roots that have laready begun growing, you can take advantage of this spring activity and the transplants can get off to a strong start in their new locations. Depending upon the plant species, this may differ a bit from conventional advice, but it works well for me as long as I provide the TLC needed after transplanting.

As with any newly transplanted landscape stock, keep a close eye on it for a few weeks to make sure it stays healthy. If roots are damaged or if, as with a forsythis you have to cut around a root ball to keep it manageable, you need to watch for signs that the plant isn't getting enough water through its remaining root system. If it starts wilting or loosing leaves, that's a sure sign of dehydration and the plant should be thoroughly watered until it no longer wilts between waterings.

As eco-friendly gardners, using collected rainwater for this purpose is a good idea, especially for those who live in areas where clean water sources are overtaxed by increasing human demand.

OK, now I'm off to separate some irises that have multiplied to the point of overcrowding.

Happy Gardening!

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Easter snow for New England

After several days of warm weather last week that almost had us convinced that it was spring time, today we have two inches of snow. Fortunately, the only things we have planetd in the garden so far are plants that can withstand a little cold and snow. We have Jersualem artichokes in the ground. We've planted garden peas and lettuce. And of course, we've separated and replanted the garlic that was left in the ground as seed stock from last autumn.

There are also a number of perennials that are already growing. Strawberry plants are also growing already and we've dug and separted them. Chives, garlic chives, thyme, lemon thyme, and a few other herbs are already coming up and turning green as well. We don't expect these to be harmed at all by the brief return of wintry weather.

It isn't cold enough to hurt anything else that might be budding up around the yard like apple trees, lilacs, or any of the bulb plants (crocus, daffodil, and such) that are poking up through the ground either.

What the snow will do is keep the soil wet. That puts jerusalem artichoke tuber cuttings at slight risk of rot, but they are in a well-drained area so they should be ok.

The rest of our summer vegetables are still indoors, in seed starting trays, completely oblivious to the elements outdoors.

The snow is a reminder, however, that no matter how many seventy degree days we get in the early New England spring, there is always the possibility of cold and snow until we get into late May. Even then it's possible, although much rarer.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Keeping seed stock for self-sufficient spring planting

One of the ways in we try to become more self-sufficient as gardeners is to keep our own seed stock at the end of the year so that we can grow or own crops year after year without buying seeds. This doesn’t work well for everything we grow. For some things we’re still better off buying commercially available seeds, but  garlic works quite well in the New England climate and is also one of the easiest to propagate.

Read more with complete step by step instructions and photos on how to propagate and plant garlic...

Photo by Brad Sylvester, all rights reserved